The Mysterious Bangs at Night
The first few nights we heard it, we assumed someone was out hunting. A sharp bang, somewhere out over the fields, repeating every so often through the dark. It felt strange for that time of night, and we found ourselves…
Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela: History, Architecture & Visitor Tips
Santiago de Compostela is about an hour and a half from our village in the Ribeira Sacra, and the cathedral at its heart is the reason the city exists at all. It is the final destination of the Camino de…
Fervenza do Mácara: A Hidden Waterfall
Not far past Castillo de Pambre, where the Pambre River meets the Ulla, lies a small stretch of rapids and waterfalls known locally as the Torrentes do Mácara. We came across it after visiting the castle, and it turned out…
Avoiding Crowds in Galicia in Summer
We are writing this in the middle of high season, and it shows. Cars with foreign plates line the roads through the Ribeira Sacra, restaurant terraces fill up by mid-morning, and the quiet villages we fell in love with in…
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From Chantada to Fondós
We didn’t have much of a plan, just an idea: follow the road out of Chantada around sunset and see where it took us. That turned out to be a good call. The route runs along the edge of the…
Ancient Megaliths: Prehistoric Stone Monuments
When most people think of Galicia, they imagine the Camino de Santiago, dramatic Atlantic cliffs, green mountains and delicious seafood. But hidden among forests, farmland and remote hilltops lies another treasure—one that is thousands of years older than Roman roads…
Fervenza do Mácara: A Hidden Waterfall
Not far past Castillo de Pambre, where the Pambre River meets the Ulla, lies a small stretch of rapids and waterfalls known locally as the Torrentes do Mácara. We came across it after visiting the castle, and it turned out…
Castillo de Pambre: A Medieval Castle in Rural Lugo
Tucked away in the countryside of Palas de Rei, in the province of Lugo, Castillo de Pambre is one of those places that barely shows up on the radar of most visitors to Galicia, yet it is one of the…
Boat Trips from Belesar: Ribeira Sacra by Water
Belesar is one of the main departure points for boat trips through this stretch of the Ribeira Sacra, and it’s easy to see why. The village sits right on the Miño, surrounded by the terraced vineyards this region is known…
